Zinfandel, An All-American Hero

OK, so I'm a fan of Californian wine. It has been documented before on here. One of the main reasons for being such a fan is down to one grape in particular. ZINFANDEL.
Zinfandel is genetically identical to the red grape of Puglia in southern Italy - PRIMITIVO, and subsequently cuttings were taken to America by Italian migrant workers in the 19th century, principally for winemaking, and to make wines that the homesick workers could drink and feel nearer their homeland.

In the mid 1800's, Zinfandel accounted for more than two thirds of vineyard acreage, which continued into the 20th Century. During prohibition, when all alcohol was outlawed, wine, and in particular, Zinfandel, was one of very few types of alcohol to keep a steady flow of production. More accurately though, Zinfandel grapes continued to be produced, and OFFICIALLY, Zinfandel wine production decreased. As with any law there are loopholes, within prohibition, sacramental (religious) wine was allowed, as was some level of home winemaking. This grape was preferred partly because of it's thick skins and dark colour, and more importantly its ability to produce alcoholic strength. Meaning that Zinfandel winemaking continued relatively hassle free throughout this period, and more people visited church!!
 It was post-depression and post-prohibition where Zin struggled, meaning that many of the great vineyards were either abandoned or pulled up to plant other profitable crops.
Those that remain can date as far back as the 1850's and are known as Old Vine Zinfandel. These are truly precious, heritage sites within California, and go into some of the finest varietal wines that the state make. They are generally quite wild looking, untamed, gnarly bushvines, that produ
ce small amounts of very powerful fruit, which then becomes glorious wine!

One of the greatest areas of Zin production is in the north of Sonoma County, around Dry Creek and the Russian River Valley. Zinfandel whilst on the vine can produce alot of sugar and subsequently alot of alcohol. So to restrict this, vines are grown at a higher altitude, so that they gain the sunshine but less of the heat associated with it, and therefore a lower level of ripeness. This elevation is also useful as Zin grapes and vines are at risk of developing mildew and mould, when exposed to lots of fog, keeping the vines at altitude in up the valley walls keeps them above the fog line and hassle free.
Joseph Swan Vineyards make some incredible wines, from a real variety of grapes and vineyard sites, and their Mancini Ranch Zinfandel is one of their best. Made using mostly old vines dating back 70+ years! Russian River's cool climate allows loads of 'hangtime' for the grapes allowing them to develop such dense and expressive levels of flavour that age beautifully for years and years! I have one bottle of 2005 left that will continue to tempt me for hopefully a few more years yet!

Another region, known more for its award winning Cabernet Sauvignon is the fantastic Napa Valley. Situated a little further North of Carneros, and East of Sonoma County. This increased distance from San Francisco Bay, and the Pacific Coast means that the climate is slightly warmer, and therefor produces generally riper, richer wines. With Zinfandel's ability to produce sugar and alcohol in hot conditions, most of its vines are planted to the South of Napa, nearer to the cooler region of Carneros and San Pablo Bay. Oak Knoll, Yountville and Stag's Leap District are all areas to the south that produce good quality Zin, alongside Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Frog's Leap are one such producer, their Sauvignon is fantastic and crisp, whilst the Chardonnay is smoky and rich. Where they really succeed is in their Cabernet and Zinfandel production. Incredibly rich wines, with fruit, smoke and a decent bit of acidity, and the ability to age a few years come out their cellars that really do exemplify the region.

Zinfandel is a very misunderstood grape for the most part. People just assume it only makes a sweet unnatural pink wine, but they forget that to make a rose you need to start with RED grapes, and these grapes are so very red. Zinfandel grows on some of the oldest vines that have seen so much development and have survived through great depressions, and legislative measures that in their efforts to halt wine-making, actually prospered. Zinfandel is a great grape and I for one think everyone should enjoy it!

Some Tasty Americans

WOW!!!!!!
What a whirlwind couple of months!!! I have been here, there and everywhere recently, and ever so busy. The principle reason being my WEDDING! (Which now, being six months ago, shows how crazy this year has been!)
What an amazing day it was, even with a little calamity, it was just perfect. Stayed dry and sunny just long enough to make it to the church, and from the church to our lovely hall for the reception, which was excellent fun. We ate great food, drank really great wine, and bore witness to an absolutely incredible dance routine by my parents and new in-laws. Quite amazing.
So, a couple of tasting notes from around that period of frantic organisation that I'm only just getting round to now.

Ridge Vineyards, Chardonnay, 1991, Santa Cruz Mountains
From high up in the Santa Cruz Mountains, Central Coast California, some of the highest elevations in the whole of the Golden State. So high in fact, that a couple of times a year, a little snow is known to fall on the peaks!
This wine started out quite tightly wound, displaying some vanilla, menthol and lemon. The palate didn't seem to have a great deal going on either. Pretty high acid and not a great deal more.
Fast forward 30 minutes and the glass had come alive!! It was exploding with aromas of vanilla, baking spices,  smoke, candied lemon, bruised apples, pineapple chunks and crystallised ginger. A really inviting nose. The palate was packed with more of that tropical fruit, dried pineapple, apples, a little lemon and a kind creamy vanilla sponge cake quality. The acidity had subdued too, there was just a hint of sweetness, from really delicious ripe fruit, and a refreshing lift from the remaining acidity to help keep the structure. A really good wine, still together after all these years!

Domaine Carneros, Brut, 2008

ATTENTION GEEK MOMENT......
The grapes that go into making sparkling wine generally speaking, need to hold higher levels of acidity than those that go into still wine, meaning they need to be less ripe, with lower levels of sugar. This means that once vinified into the initial still wine, they still possess enough acidity, and a low enough alcohol level to survive a second fermentation. This higher acidity is achieved either by harvesting early, or growing the grapes in a much cooler climate (and possibly still harvesting earlier). This is why regions such as  Champagne and Southern England do so well in sparkling production.
California, although generally a very warm part of the world can still produce some of these cooler destinations, thanks to the cold winds and fog coming in from the Pacific, being funneled through the Golden Gate Bridge and San Fran Bay, they act like a giant air conditioning unit. The first wine region to be exposed to these cool breezes as they wash across the land is Carneros, a subregion of Napa Valley.....
Domaine Carneros is the Californian project of renowned Champagne producer Taittinger. They have found that with the temperatures being very slightly warmer than the average of Champagne, the ripening period is much more reliable, and the vines produce the sort of crop that the winemakers would expect in a 'Vintage Year' in Champagne.

This wine is a blend of Chardonnay (51%) and Pinot Noir (49%), and spent 3 years in the cellar before disgorgement, and then an addition of very little sugar in the dosage.

All this, plus some bottle age, means that the wine is pretty bracing in its crispness, with a 'well fired' yeasty bread aroma, apples and lemons too. The palate displays that lack of dosage. There is such a lemon acidity to this wine, mixed with the weighty qualities that a little oxidative age and toasty, nutty character, you get a really well balanced wine. Really delicious.

Some of America's Finest

It may come as a surprise, but I'm quite an avid lover of Californian wine. I love the rich, fruit forward, exciting nature of the region. I also love the approachable nature of the geography and the desire of the winemakers to make wines for people to enjoy.

Principally, my grape variety of choice is Zinfandel, the distant relative of Puglia, Italy's Primativo. Zinfandel has a long, rich history within California. It us the variety that survived and pre dates Prohibition, and across the state, ancient vineyards still exist, in some cases, from the 1800's! They are wild, untamed, gnarly old vines, that produce very little fruit. But what they do produce is so deeply concentrated, rich, and expressive, in the right hands, it can make sublime wine!
This leads me neatly to some wines I tasted recently by Ridge Vineyards, one of the greats of California....

Ridge Vineyards, Lytton Springs, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County 2009
71% Zinfandel, 23% Petite Sirah and 6% Carignane.
This wine came across really well. A young, brooding wine, full of muscle, and power, but also a great deal of finesse refinement, and control.
There's a great freshness to the nose, of blueberries, raspberries and spice, herbs and smoke. The palate is full of those same herbaceous qualities of the nose. A real green quality; green peppers and a bit of basil freshness.
There was some heat on the palate, but not overwhelmingly so. The dominant characteristics I picked up beyond the savoury liveliness were luscious red berries and a hugely bracing acidity and a small suggestion of sweetness. All rounding off with really mouth puckering, grippy tannins and brilliant length. A great wine, with a bright future ahead!

Ridge Vineyards, Geyserville, Alexander Valley, Sonoma County 1992
I can't seem to find exact blend ratios for this vintage, but I can say that it's a mix of Zinfandel and old vine Carignane, seemingly excluding Petite Sirah in this cuvee (or at least within this vintage).
What a wine.....The nose is just gorgeous. Full of generous amounts of red cherries, red currants and a piquant smokiness that is just delightful.
The palate is full of fruit, ripe fruit, with secondary earthy qualities running like a seam through each aspect of this wine, stopping it becoming confected or stewed. There is oak, but seemingly subdued. Surprisingly the fruit seems to usurp the oak dominance, given the 21 years this wine has been around, this is a welcome surprise. The tannins are soft and fine, and fill the mouth, giving a very literal 'warm fuzzy feeling'. After all of this, as with the Lytton Springs, there is a great whip of acidity to freshen up that warmth and suggest this wine potentially has more to give!



Ridge Vineyards, York Creek Cabernet Sauvignon, Spring Mountain, Napa Valley 1982
This vineyard doesn't produce Cabernet Sauvignon any more, it now just produces one of Ridge's vineyard/ region specific Zinfandel blends, which it has done so ever since it's 'discovery' in 1971. With this severing of lineage in mind, there was a feeling that this wine was a bit special and a little different. Admittedly, it's not a Zinfandel like the last two wines, but it is another great bottle from Ridge, so definitely worth some sort of mention.
The nose was a glorious mix of sour, red and black cherry. As well as some floral elements and some rich smoke. There was some very faint minty, basil, menthol nuances too, just about. The nose also carried some light raisin elements and lovely cigar box aromas. There seemed to be both savoury green peppers and  slightly piquant red pepper on the palate, alongside more of the rich, vanilla flavours. The fruit on the palate comes across tart and really quite punchy, sour red cherry and other less precise red fruit give the mouth feel a great sense of depth and vitality. Again, as seemingly with all Ridge wine, the acidity was present, and will probably outlast us all.

All in all, through this brief but diverse window into the wares of Ridge Vineyards, I have managed to taste a spectrum of wines at different stages of their lives, all be it different cuvees, a very interesting and educational experience. One that leaves me with one overarching impression of Ridge. When young, their wines display great power, restrained power. Then with age they gain complexity in the form of savoury qualities, whilst retaining bright fruit and acidity, proper Cali wines.