Showing posts with label Chardonnay. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Chardonnay. Show all posts

Thursday, 30 October 2014

Some Tasty Americans

WOW!!!!!!
What a whirlwind couple of months!!! I have been here, there and everywhere recently, and ever so busy. The principle reason being my WEDDING! (Which now, being six months ago, shows how crazy this year has been!)
What an amazing day it was, even with a little calamity, it was just perfect. Stayed dry and sunny just long enough to make it to the church, and from the church to our lovely hall for the reception, which was excellent fun. We ate great food, drank really great wine, and bore witness to an absolutely incredible dance routine by my parents and new in-laws. Quite amazing.
So, a couple of tasting notes from around that period of frantic organisation that I'm only just getting round to now.

Ridge Vineyards, Chardonnay, 1991, Santa Cruz Mountains
From high up in the Santa Cruz Mountains, Central Coast California, some of the highest elevations in the whole of the Golden State. So high in fact, that a couple of times a year, a little snow is known to fall on the peaks!
This wine started out quite tightly wound, displaying some vanilla, menthol and lemon. The palate didn't seem to have a great deal going on either. Pretty high acid and not a great deal more.
Fast forward 30 minutes and the glass had come alive!! It was exploding with aromas of vanilla, baking spices,  smoke, candied lemon, bruised apples, pineapple chunks and crystallised ginger. A really inviting nose. The palate was packed with more of that tropical fruit, dried pineapple, apples, a little lemon and a kind creamy vanilla sponge cake quality. The acidity had subdued too, there was just a hint of sweetness, from really delicious ripe fruit, and a refreshing lift from the remaining acidity to help keep the structure. A really good wine, still together after all these years!

Domaine Carneros, Brut, 2008

ATTENTION GEEK MOMENT......
The grapes that go into making sparkling wine generally speaking, need to hold higher levels of acidity than those that go into still wine, meaning they need to be less ripe, with lower levels of sugar. This means that once vinified into the initial still wine, they still possess enough acidity, and a low enough alcohol level to survive a second fermentation. This higher acidity is achieved either by harvesting early, or growing the grapes in a much cooler climate (and possibly still harvesting earlier). This is why regions such as  Champagne and Southern England do so well in sparkling production.
California, although generally a very warm part of the world can still produce some of these cooler destinations, thanks to the cold winds and fog coming in from the Pacific, being funneled through the Golden Gate Bridge and San Fran Bay, they act like a giant air conditioning unit. The first wine region to be exposed to these cool breezes as they wash across the land is Carneros, a subregion of Napa Valley.....
Domaine Carneros is the Californian project of renowned Champagne producer Taittinger. They have found that with the temperatures being very slightly warmer than the average of Champagne, the ripening period is much more reliable, and the vines produce the sort of crop that the winemakers would expect in a 'Vintage Year' in Champagne.
This wine is a blend of Chardonnay (51%) and Pinot Noir (49%), and spent 3 years in the cellar before disgorgement, and then an addition of very little sugar in the dosage.
All this, plus some bottle age, means that the wine is pretty bracing in its crispness, with a 'well fired' yeasty bread aroma, apples and lemons too. The palate displays that lack of dosage. There is such a lemon acidity to this wine, mixed with the weighty qualities that a little oxidative age and toasty, nutty character, you get a really well balanced wine. Really delicious.

Sunday, 1 September 2013

A couple of older Aussies

I spent Sunday evening with some very good friends, with some lovely wine, snacks and some great records we had all been collecting. We had some of the most delicious sourdough bread as well as some truly amazing oak-smoked, sun dried tomatoes. They were utterly incredible, full of the rich sweetness of your normal sun dried tomato, but with this whole other dimension, a smoky, nutty flavour, unlike anything I've had. Obviously they disappeared pretty quickly, but the oil they left behind was so full of their flavour, alongside a super intense garlic tang. We put to good use the rest of the sourdough.
So, the wine.
Both of these friends spent a great deal of time together living in Australia, some of the best times of their lives, so I decided to bring along something with that time of their life in mind, and here they are.

De Bortoli Chardonnay 2004, Yarra Valley, Victoria

This wine really is doing well, despite on the back of the bottle a suggestion of three years cellaring is mooted. The nose is full of smoke and nutty qualities, as well as some lovely oak and tropical fruits. Although the smoke and oak are very present, it feels in no way overblown, it seems to create a rich intensity, not unlike that of Mersault.
On the palate, more of that smoke, vanilla, oak, and toast. But more fruit than I had expected, some of it tropical but also some pear-ish qualities and stoney mineral flavours.
The finish is long, and the acidity really quite big. For not much more than £5 a bottle as a bin end, I've done alright here I think. I have one left, which I may hold on to for just a little longer.






Mountain Blue, Cabernet Shiraz 2002, Rosemount Estate, Mudgee

This wine was heavier and darker than dark matter! But only as far as its appearance goes. The nose is packed with bramble fruit, and spices; cinnamon, liquorice and pepper, alongside a really pleasant earthy quality and raisin aroma. Showing it's age.
The palate has a great deal of freshness, with some herby levels, laced around some hefty blackcurrant and blueberry. That spicey nose continues onto the palate with some capsicum and pepper. All of which is underlined by really toasty warming oak, which, impressively hasn't overwhelmed the fruit, which is very much still in attendance.
Not all is positive sadly, there is some soupy quality emerging as the wine develops in the glass, and some stewed fruit. Not much, but you do become aware of it, which suggests now is the right time.
Overall a pretty enjoyable wine, entwined in a very enjoyable evening!