Zinfandel, An All-American Hero

OK, so I'm a fan of Californian wine. It has been documented before on here. One of the main reasons for being such a fan is down to one grape in particular. ZINFANDEL.
Zinfandel is genetically identical to the red grape of Puglia in southern Italy - PRIMITIVO, and subsequently cuttings were taken to America by Italian migrant workers in the 19th century, principally for winemaking, and to make wines that the homesick workers could drink and feel nearer their homeland.

In the mid 1800's, Zinfandel accounted for more than two thirds of vineyard acreage, which continued into the 20th Century. During prohibition, when all alcohol was outlawed, wine, and in particular, Zinfandel, was one of very few types of alcohol to keep a steady flow of production. More accurately though, Zinfandel grapes continued to be produced, and OFFICIALLY, Zinfandel wine production decreased. As with any law there are loopholes, within prohibition, sacramental (religious) wine was allowed, as was some level of home winemaking. This grape was preferred partly because of it's thick skins and dark colour, and more importantly its ability to produce alcoholic strength. Meaning that Zinfandel winemaking continued relatively hassle free throughout this period, and more people visited church!!
 It was post-depression and post-prohibition where Zin struggled, meaning that many of the great vineyards were either abandoned or pulled up to plant other profitable crops.
Those that remain can date as far back as the 1850's and are known as Old Vine Zinfandel. These are truly precious, heritage sites within California, and go into some of the finest varietal wines that the state make. They are generally quite wild looking, untamed, gnarly bushvines, that produ
ce small amounts of very powerful fruit, which then becomes glorious wine!

One of the greatest areas of Zin production is in the north of Sonoma County, around Dry Creek and the Russian River Valley. Zinfandel whilst on the vine can produce alot of sugar and subsequently alot of alcohol. So to restrict this, vines are grown at a higher altitude, so that they gain the sunshine but less of the heat associated with it, and therefore a lower level of ripeness. This elevation is also useful as Zin grapes and vines are at risk of developing mildew and mould, when exposed to lots of fog, keeping the vines at altitude in up the valley walls keeps them above the fog line and hassle free.
Joseph Swan Vineyards make some incredible wines, from a real variety of grapes and vineyard sites, and their Mancini Ranch Zinfandel is one of their best. Made using mostly old vines dating back 70+ years! Russian River's cool climate allows loads of 'hangtime' for the grapes allowing them to develop such dense and expressive levels of flavour that age beautifully for years and years! I have one bottle of 2005 left that will continue to tempt me for hopefully a few more years yet!

Another region, known more for its award winning Cabernet Sauvignon is the fantastic Napa Valley. Situated a little further North of Carneros, and East of Sonoma County. This increased distance from San Francisco Bay, and the Pacific Coast means that the climate is slightly warmer, and therefor produces generally riper, richer wines. With Zinfandel's ability to produce sugar and alcohol in hot conditions, most of its vines are planted to the South of Napa, nearer to the cooler region of Carneros and San Pablo Bay. Oak Knoll, Yountville and Stag's Leap District are all areas to the south that produce good quality Zin, alongside Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Frog's Leap are one such producer, their Sauvignon is fantastic and crisp, whilst the Chardonnay is smoky and rich. Where they really succeed is in their Cabernet and Zinfandel production. Incredibly rich wines, with fruit, smoke and a decent bit of acidity, and the ability to age a few years come out their cellars that really do exemplify the region.

Zinfandel is a very misunderstood grape for the most part. People just assume it only makes a sweet unnatural pink wine, but they forget that to make a rose you need to start with RED grapes, and these grapes are so very red. Zinfandel grows on some of the oldest vines that have seen so much development and have survived through great depressions, and legislative measures that in their efforts to halt wine-making, actually prospered. Zinfandel is a great grape and I for one think everyone should enjoy it!

A selection from a recent Le Mistral tasting

For years and years, the restaurant I manage has had a monthly wine club descend into its private room, each member, bringing a bottle or two from their personal cellar, covers it with a sock/tin foil or paper to hide its identity, and relinquishes it to the group.

Each is tasted blind and guesses of its country of origin, grape variety, producer and vintage are all thrown around the table until we arrive at it's true identity.

Until last year I was only a spectator at these events, serving up the food and hospitality, now, happily, I am no longer on the outside looking in.

It's always hard to know what to take along, and how my bottle will stand up to what everyone else brings. I have only been amassing my modest collection for a year or so, whereas most of the group have been collecting for decades, so it can be tricky to find something of interest and worth. It doesn't need to be expensive or incredibly old, but as long as it provokes some conversation, a wine will generally be well received.

The Foundry, Grenache Blanc 2010. Stellenbosch, SA.

The Foundry is a project in its infancy but comes from a pretty decent producer from Stellenbosch and its surrounding areas- Meerlust. They seem to specialise in a few Rhone white varietals including Roussanne and Viognier too.

This wine is very aromatic, pungently smokey to begin with, but this blows off reasonably quickly. What follows is oak, a custardy, vanilla nose, with bundles of tropical fruit; maybe it was a bit too cold but the nose just didn't quite fill the glass. The palate however was very pleasant, lots of cakey smoothness. Great dryness and refreshing citrus acidity fills your mouth, with a very slightly honeyed finish and wooded notes. 




Domaine De La Borie Blanche. Terriors D'Altitude, AOC Minervois La Liviniere 2008.

70% syrah, 10% grenache and 20% mourvedre. Typical of the region, but what made this slightly different was that 20% of the syrah had been fermented through carbonic maceration, which was evident, certainly in the nose of this wine. It was weighty, and powerful with a degree of alcohol, but underneath was some lighter fruit and herbal notes, and possibly some menthol too. The dominant fruit on both the nose and palate were blueberries and black currant, but some cherry and strawberry sweetness came through every so often. 
Also on the palate was a great deal of tannin and stewed fruits, and prune. This wine was a bit soupy, and heavy, possibly needs some time to lighten up and for all the aspects to come together.

Joseph Swan Vineyards, pinot noir, Russian River Valley CA 2006.

Swan Vineyards are a great small winery based in the Russian River Valley in Sonoma County, producing great things, at reasonable prices too. 
This wine had a really perfumed nose of light, sour cherry, earth, oak and some other mild fruit fragrances, with some mouth wateringly tangy cranberry right at the end. This follows through onto the palate, great redcurrant acidity and red fruit characteristics. Some of these characteristics say this could be a chunky, modern Burgundy, but the giveaway is just the mildest hint of alcoholic heat, which makes this absolutely delicious!