Wines of The Cape

Recently I have become more interested in the wines of South Africa, and is think this is due mostly to being exposed to it at a really interesting tasting in Nottingham, and in a new book I got about wines from the Southern Hemisphere, which has some really interesting info on wines and history of the Western Cape.
South African wine, developmentally is really interesting. Wine has been made in the Cape since the late seventeenth century, when French Huguenots in exile began cultivating vines, initially in and around Cape Town, then Constantia (where the famed dessert wine Vin de Constance comes from). In fact, Francshhoek in Paarl, one of the oldest towns in South Africa, is the Dutch for 'French Corner', for the high levels of French who settled here. It is also worth saying that wines that come from Francshhoek are often more French in style.
This French influence seems to have run through all the wines I have tasted recently, particularly those of both the Northern and Southern Rhone Valleys. The following are some of those wines.....

Bellingham Estates Bernard Series Roussanne, 2013
Bellingham are a pretty large producer in SA, but their Bernard Series wines are a smaller project which began in a small corner of their Francshhoek cellars at the start of the 21st century. The wines, like The Foundry wines in the same picture are based on a New World take on the Southern Rhone. The fruit mostly comes from Francshhoek, with some also coming from further north in Paarl, picked from low lying, north facing vineyards. Paarl is one of the warmer regions of The Cape, but Francshhoek's low lying vineyards rely on and benefit from the shadows cast by the Elephant's Corner mountains, once known as Oliphants Hoek to keep them cool.
This is a pretty big wine, with a real smokiness on the nose, with peaches, apples and mangos, and an almost yeasty aroma. Although it comes from a pretty warm place, there is some acidity, and a slight oiliness on the palate, and fantastic length. That soft, oaked tropical fruit comes through too, making a really enjoyable wine.

Glenelly Grand Vin 2008
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (40%), Shiraz (40%), Petit Verdot (14%) and Merlot (6%). This winery has in recent years been taken under control by a bit of a Bordeaux legend. Madame May de Lenquesaing, of Chateau Pichon Languville Comtesse de Lalande. This takeover in 2003 has done nothing but good things for Glenelly, they produce fantastic wines at various levels. This wine has spent 18 months in French oak, a third of which is new.
What a big, but structured wine. The nose is packed with tabacco, green pepper and blackcurrant, and a distinct prickle of spice. It is almost intoxicating in its richness, which comes through on the palate. More blackcurrant, and a savoury earthiness, all wrapped up in grainy, well integrated tannin. There is a fair amount of acidity too which really lifts the wine and gives it a refreshing edge. At no point did it come across as too heavy or cloying. It'll certainly keep over the coming years!

The Spice Route, Mourvedre, 2009.
Spice Route is the second project by Fairview founder, Charles Back. Fairview began in Paarl, and sourced from various sites within the surrounding regions, which is how we came across the Klein Amoskuil farm in Malmesbury, Swartland. Under performing Chenin Blanc and Pinotage vines were pulled up and replaced with varieties found more frequently in the Southern Rhone, and in this case, Provence too. Bushvines reign around here, these gnarly, low slung, small quantity producing vines are suited perfectly to the hot Paarl climate.
The colour of this wine is near black, with aromas or brine, black olives, smoked meats, blackberries and vanilla. It has spent 12 months in two and three year old French oak, which adds a lovely softness to the palate. Tannin isn't huge in here, but it is evident, and has grip. Acid is also really well balanced and helps the palate retain freshness. I really enjoyed this wine, and with a couple of Spice Route's other wines winging their way to me as I write, I can't wait to taste a few more!


I'm often being told that at some point 'I'll come to my senses' and get properly stuck in to The Old World, rather than with the new; California, New Zealand, Australia and now South Africa. If this is the case and I will eventually become more obsessed with European wines, then maybe South Africa is a good place to start. The connections aren't just historical between the Old World and New here. The re-imagining of French styles is constantly evolving here, with French greats moving to The Cape, and graduates from Stellenbosch wine making courses going the other way, the two seem more separated by geography than anything else.
For now though, I'll certainly continue exploring new and interesting things down in The Cape.

Zinfandel, An All-American Hero

OK, so I'm a fan of Californian wine. It has been documented before on here. One of the main reasons for being such a fan is down to one grape in particular. ZINFANDEL.
Zinfandel is genetically identical to the red grape of Puglia in southern Italy - PRIMITIVO, and subsequently cuttings were taken to America by Italian migrant workers in the 19th century, principally for winemaking, and to make wines that the homesick workers could drink and feel nearer their homeland.

In the mid 1800's, Zinfandel accounted for more than two thirds of vineyard acreage, which continued into the 20th Century. During prohibition, when all alcohol was outlawed, wine, and in particular, Zinfandel, was one of very few types of alcohol to keep a steady flow of production. More accurately though, Zinfandel grapes continued to be produced, and OFFICIALLY, Zinfandel wine production decreased. As with any law there are loopholes, within prohibition, sacramental (religious) wine was allowed, as was some level of home winemaking. This grape was preferred partly because of it's thick skins and dark colour, and more importantly its ability to produce alcoholic strength. Meaning that Zinfandel winemaking continued relatively hassle free throughout this period, and more people visited church!!
 It was post-depression and post-prohibition where Zin struggled, meaning that many of the great vineyards were either abandoned or pulled up to plant other profitable crops.
Those that remain can date as far back as the 1850's and are known as Old Vine Zinfandel. These are truly precious, heritage sites within California, and go into some of the finest varietal wines that the state make. They are generally quite wild looking, untamed, gnarly bushvines, that produ
ce small amounts of very powerful fruit, which then becomes glorious wine!

One of the greatest areas of Zin production is in the north of Sonoma County, around Dry Creek and the Russian River Valley. Zinfandel whilst on the vine can produce alot of sugar and subsequently alot of alcohol. So to restrict this, vines are grown at a higher altitude, so that they gain the sunshine but less of the heat associated with it, and therefore a lower level of ripeness. This elevation is also useful as Zin grapes and vines are at risk of developing mildew and mould, when exposed to lots of fog, keeping the vines at altitude in up the valley walls keeps them above the fog line and hassle free.
Joseph Swan Vineyards make some incredible wines, from a real variety of grapes and vineyard sites, and their Mancini Ranch Zinfandel is one of their best. Made using mostly old vines dating back 70+ years! Russian River's cool climate allows loads of 'hangtime' for the grapes allowing them to develop such dense and expressive levels of flavour that age beautifully for years and years! I have one bottle of 2005 left that will continue to tempt me for hopefully a few more years yet!

Another region, known more for its award winning Cabernet Sauvignon is the fantastic Napa Valley. Situated a little further North of Carneros, and East of Sonoma County. This increased distance from San Francisco Bay, and the Pacific Coast means that the climate is slightly warmer, and therefor produces generally riper, richer wines. With Zinfandel's ability to produce sugar and alcohol in hot conditions, most of its vines are planted to the South of Napa, nearer to the cooler region of Carneros and San Pablo Bay. Oak Knoll, Yountville and Stag's Leap District are all areas to the south that produce good quality Zin, alongside Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Frog's Leap are one such producer, their Sauvignon is fantastic and crisp, whilst the Chardonnay is smoky and rich. Where they really succeed is in their Cabernet and Zinfandel production. Incredibly rich wines, with fruit, smoke and a decent bit of acidity, and the ability to age a few years come out their cellars that really do exemplify the region.

Zinfandel is a very misunderstood grape for the most part. People just assume it only makes a sweet unnatural pink wine, but they forget that to make a rose you need to start with RED grapes, and these grapes are so very red. Zinfandel grows on some of the oldest vines that have seen so much development and have survived through great depressions, and legislative measures that in their efforts to halt wine-making, actually prospered. Zinfandel is a great grape and I for one think everyone should enjoy it!